Max Abroad : The Best of Spain

 

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BEST TIME TO VISIT : ANY TIME OF YEAR

Like something out of a J.R.R. Tolkien fever dream, Spain's Castillo de Zafra sits atop a regal promontory in a setting that may as well be populated with roaming dragons. It is in fact the stand-in for the "Tower of Joy" in season six of Game of Thrones.

Built back around the 12th and 13th centuries, the stunning castle has been passed around amongst the Spanish nobility for hundreds of years. The tall towers of the castle sit atop a massive rock located on what was once the border between Christian and Muslim territories. The flat surface atop the rock is crowned with a high defensive wall that makes accessing the castle inconvenient even for those who live lived there.

By the 15th century, the castle had come under siege by a Castillian king who was fighting with the then owner of the castle. But unsurprisingly the imposing defence held.

The castle has been owned by a long list of noblemen, some of whom repaired or expanded the grounds. There are even rumours of secret rooms that were carved into the rock beneath the structures. While these have never been found, Castillo de Zafra absolutely looks like the type of castle that would have them.

By the modern day, the towers and buildings had been badly damaged and many were crumbling. But thanks to restoration efforts by the castle's 20th-century owner, Don Antonio Sanz Polo, it once again looks like something out of fantasy. Today the Castillo de Zafra is privately owned and anyone wishing to tour the castle grounds must get permission to enter the premises, and it is said that the only way in is by climbing a ladder. Up the rock. Incredible.

Spain is a country celebrated for its rich culture, historical edifices, and breathtaking landscapes. Yet, beyond its bustling cities and iconic landmarks lies a realm of serene beauty found in its stunning lakes and lagoons. From the northern realms of Catalonia to the southern expanse of Andalusia, Spain's aquatic treasures offer both a tranquil escape and an exhilarating adventure for those who venture to explore them. Embark on a journey to discover the awe-inspiring lakes and lagoons of Spain, showcasing nature's splendour and offering moments of peacefulness amidst the rush of daily life.

1. Lago de Sanabria

Situated in the province of Zamora, the glacial marvel that is Lago de Sanabria stands as a testament to Spain's natural beauty. This pristine lake, positioned equidistant from both the northern region of Galicia and Portugal, presents an unparalleled natural landscape, ideal for those seeking solace from the bustling world. Just 12 km from the medieval village of Puebla de Sanabria, the lake is accessible by car and perfect for hiking enthusiasts, water sports aficionados, and beachgoers. However, be advised, the water can be refreshingly chilly even on sunnier days.

2. Lagos de Covadonga

In the heart of the Picos de Europa mountain range in Asturias, the Lagos de Covadonga comprises three magnificent lakes - Enol, Ercina, and the seasonal Bricial. Famous for their appearance in the Vuelta a España cycling race, the lakes offer breathtaking views regardless of the weather, with sunny days reflecting the mountains in the clear waters and foggy days presenting an ethereal beauty. To fully experience these lakes, take the bus to avoid parking woes and stay until sunset for a truly magical view.

3. Lago San Mauricio

Nestled within the Aigüestortes National Park in Lleida, the Lake of San Mauricio is encircled by towering peaks that reach up to 3,000 meters. The lake's serene ambiance, particularly stunning in the frost of winter, is a heart-stealer for those who cherish nature's tranquillity. Preparing for a visit involves a scenic hour walk from the Prat de Pierró car park, a journey well worth the effort for the breathtaking views it offers.

4. Laguna Rosa

Close to Torrevieja in Alicante, the Laguna Rosa, or the Pink Lagoon, is a sight to behold within the ‘Mata and Torrevieja Lakes Nature Reserve’. Its unique pink hue, a result of the high salt concentration, offers a photogenic landscape that changes from a lunar-like terrain to a peaceful oasis through the day. While tempting, swimming here requires caution due to the water's salinity and shallow depth, making it more suitable for a relaxing lie-down rather than a swim.

5. Martel Lake

Hidden beneath the surface in the renowned Caves of Drach on Mallorca, Martel Lake stands out with its turquoise waters that flow through one of the world's most beautiful caves. Named after the French speleologist Édouard-Alfred Martel, the lake hosts classical music concerts in a natural amphitheatre like no other, making it an unforgettable Spanish experience.

The Grandest of Them All: Lake Banyoles

The largest lake in Spain, Lake Banyoles, is located in Catalonia, near Girona. This natural wonder, providing a wide variety of activities like rowing, canoeing, and swimming, hosted the rowing events during the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games. Its picturesque scenes are a magnet for tourists seeking beauty and adventure.

With an array of stunning lakes, Spain offers plenty of options for swimming in breathtaking natural surroundings. Each lake provides a unique experience with its own charm. Whether it's engaging in water sports or enjoying a family swim, Spain's lakes cater to all tastes and preferences.

Spain's lakes and lagoons are more than just water bodies; they are sanctuaries of peace, adventure, and natural beauty waiting to be explored. As you plan your next escape, remember these hidden treasures that promise not just a journey, but a discovery of serenity and awe-inspiring landscapes.

The Valencian Community fuses nature, history and culture throughout its entire territory. And being able to walk through the villages that take you back in time is not so difficult to find. Alicante, Valencia and Castellón are full of places that mark and remind us of their historical past. Walls, castles and fortresses are just some of them. Here are 5 options I wanted to share with you where you can stop and enjoy Spain as it was in the Middle Ages.

Culla (Castellón)

In the province of Castellón, we find one of the most charming corners of the Valencian Community, Culla. With a population of only 500 inhabitants, this beautiful municipality is surrounded by a privileged natural environment. Its wild nature and peaceful atmosphere make you travel through history while strolling its medieval streets. Its characteristic style of cobbled houses, the ruins of the Arab Castle, the Granary of the Commander or the Parish Church of El Salvador help you immerse yourself in times gone by.

The nature that surrounds Culla also allows for a wide variety of outdoor activities. For this reason, taking excursions to explore its beautiful scenery or visiting the Miner del Maestrat Park is a must. Likewise, you should not forget to try some of the most typical dishes of l’Alt Maestrat such as the "Pot of the Maestrat - Olla del Maestrat" or its heavenly "Coca".

Xàtiva (Valencia)

Xàtiva is one of those cities that leaves you spellbound as you go through each of its corners. Through its monuments, you can appreciate the passage of history. It was declared an episcopal headquarters at the time of the Visigoths, living its period of maximum cultural splendour during the Muslim rule. Xàtiva was also the birthplace of the painter José Ribera, known as 'El Españoleto', and of two popes from the Borja dynasty. Its precious hiding places and the majesty of its Castle will transport you back to the middle ages. Its old town was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1982.

Chulilla (Valencia)

In the interior of the Valencian Community, the beautiful town of Chulilla is located. The magic of this place lies in its magnificent location in the middle basin of the Turia river. The vast amount of water that runs through this area has made it well-known for hosting many of the trails which make up the "Ruta del Agua". In it, you can enjoy endless walks such as the Ruta de Los Calderones or the Charco Azul. In addition, the beauty of its narrow and steep streets will help you savour medieval times.

Guadalest (Alicante)

The province of Alicante combines not just sea but also mountains. It is the fourth most mountainous province in Spain. And thanks to this, we can find places as spectacular as the town of Guadalest. Located on a cliff at an altitude of 595 meters, El Castell de Guadalest has managed to maintain the essence and the most typical features of the inland Alicante towns. Its natural enclave is very picturesque since its houses are embedded in the rock and the views it offers are of the extensive valley below. Its beauty and charm earned it the award of Historic-Artistic Site in 1974.

This village also offers a series of very varied cultural activities. You can go to the Casa Orduña, a noble house from the 17th century nicknamed the Casa Gran; or stop by one of the curious museums, such as the Museum of Nativity scenes and Dollhouses, the Museum of Microminiatures, the Museum of Salt and Pepper Shakers or the Museum of the Collection of Historical Vehicles.

Morella (Castellón)

The province of Castellón is home to one of the most incredible places in the entire Valencian territory: Morella. The city that was built mainly at the foot of the Castle, located at an altitude of more than 1,000 meters, continues to maintain its medieval aspect. In addition, its fortress that still preserves the main square, the cistern and the Pardals tower, is considered today to be one of the most important treasures of the Castellón territory.

No matter what time of year you drop by the Maestrazgo, this town with about 2,500 inhabitants transports you back in time. Be sure not to forget to visit the church Arciprestal Santa María La Mayor, a Gothic jewel reflecting the power of this location centuries ago.

The simple answer is the terroir. It has often been said that vines love to suffer and the best wine comes from grapes that have had to struggle. There is a lot of truth in this. The deeper and more widely a vine has to spread its roots looking for nourishment the greater the mineral subtleties the grapes will have. Too easy a supply of water leads to bloated grapes that dilute flavours. So, small berries, laden with aromatic compounds and flavorful minerals but not overfilled with water are what winemakers prefer to use to make their best wines with. Generous amounts of organic matter in topsoil tend to contain richness and also they retain water, keeping vines happy and stifling their need to look deeper for sustenance. Hence, poor and often stony soils and subsoils are a preferred option for vineyards.

Ribera del Duero estates are located on geological strata that were deposited in the Quaternary period (the past 2.6 million years) on the floodplain of the Duero River as it passes through the spot which today is Aranda de Duero. Not long ago, this plain suffered from periodic floods as the river found its way westwards from north-central Spain to its estuary in north-western Portugal where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. These floods carried away much of the richness of the soil and left behind stones, sands and some clays. Today, the Duero is regulated by a series of dams and weirs to avoid catastrophic flooding. The vineyards that follow the river are situated between 12 to 19 meters (40-60 feet) above the level of the river, which means its moisture is completely independent of the Duero river itself.

The characteristics of these soils allow the grapes to ripen very well since the sun’s heat is retained during the day by numerous boulders, rocks and gravels on and near the surface. The effect on the grapes is to have solar heat from above and reflected or radiated heat from below. Another advantage is that these surfaces increase the colour of the grape berries by reflecting light upwards off the stones. Grapes develop darker skins to protect the genetic material in their seeds from potentially destabilising solar radiation. This effect promotes phenolic maturation, synthesizing polished and silky tannins which form the characteristic backbone of this vineyard’s wines.

The abundance of boulders and gravels also produces what is referred to as a quilting effect on the ground, avoiding the loss of too much moisture through evaporation, something that gives freshness and a naturally-balanced acidity to the wines. All this is reinforced by the altitude at around 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. The higher the altitude, the thinner the layer of the protective atmosphere above the vines, hence the darker the grape skins.

The altitude also causes a pronounced temperature variation between day and night, something that stimulates the vines. This temperature fluctuation is also advantageous during the ripening period of the fruit because it causes an increase in fruit size during the cool of the night as the vine absorbs water and a decrease during the day as the heat of the sun and stones promotes water evaporation through the vine’s leaves. This incites a further thickening of the grape skins which enhances the synthesis of anthocyanins, substances responsible for skin colour.

A relatively high limestone content in the soils lends structure and minerality to the wines. Although limestone on its own is too tough for roots to penetrate, its soils are rich in what is known as plant-accessible calcium carbonate, the principal chemical component of limestone. Scientists have found that calcium is vital for the formation of disease-resistant grape berries. Grapes tend to concentrate calcium in their skins where they help in the formulation of strong cell walls that maintain skin cohesion and hence resistance to degradation. Vines that grow in soils that have less available calcium tend to prioritize internal cell growth over skin vitality, making grapes more susceptible to fungal diseases.
 
Terroir might sound like that stuff that gets stuck to your boots when you walk through a vineyard, but it is much more than that. It encompasses all the factors that can affect a grape’s growth and wellbeing.

La Saeta, a deeply emotional and spiritual form of devotional song, has become an integral part of the Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebrations in Spain. Originating in Andalusia, this unique musical expression has a rich history that dates back centuries. As the streets of Spanish towns and cities become filled with processions and fervent devotees during Holy Week, the haunting melodies of the saeta resonate, creating a profound and moving atmosphere.

The roots of the saeta can be traced back to the Moors' domination of Spain, which lasted from the 8th to the 15th century. The lyrical style of the saeta reflects a fusion of Arabic and Spanish musical traditions, resulting in a distinctive and captivating sound.

Over the years, the saeta has become intrinsically linked to Semana Santa, particularly in the region of Andalusia, where it flourishes. During Holy Week processions, statues depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ are carried through the streets, while saeteros (singers of the saeta) perch on balconies, doorways, or improvised stages. These singers offer their heartfelt devotions through song, expressing their adoration and pain for the suffering of Jesus Christ.

Themes in the saeta revolve around the Passion of Christ, focusing on his torments, crucifixion, and the sorrow felt by the Virgin Mary. The saeta serves as a poignant reminder of the sacrifice made by Jesus and elicits intense emotions from both performers and listeners.

The lyrics of the saeta are characterised by their simplicity and directness, often using metaphors and poignant imagery to convey the singer's spiritual connection to the Passion. The starkness of the lyrics, combined with the melancholic melodies, creates a sombre and introspective atmosphere.

The Virgin Mary, a central figure in the Catholic faith, is frequently the subject of saetas. These songs often express profound lamentation for her son's suffering and her own anguish as she witnesses his crucifixion. The saeteros use their voices to convey a sense of empathy and solidarity with Mary, amplifying the emotional impact of the saeta.

The saeta also serves as a form of personal reflection, allowing individuals to express their own fears, hopes, and desires in relation to the Passion. Many saetas delve into the inner struggles faced by individuals as they grapple with their faith and seek solace in the divine. These introspective elements further contribute to the emotional depth of the saeta.

In recent years, the topics explored in the saeta have expanded beyond traditional religious themes. Saeteros have started incorporating contemporary issues, such as social injustice and political unrest, into their compositions. While maintaining the core religious nature of the saeta, these expressions offer a creative outlet for social commentary and enable artists to connect with modern audiences.

La Saeta in Semana Santa encapsulates the power of music to connect individuals to their faith, stirring deep emotions and fostering a sense of unity in times of devotion. Its origins dating back centuries, the saeta has become an essential part of the Holy Week celebrations, particularly in Andalusia. Through heartfelt songs expressing the profound pain and adoration for Jesus' suffering, the saeteros help create an atmosphere of reflection and solemnity.

The simplicity and directness of the saeta's lyrics, combined with its haunting melodies, make it a truly unique form of music. By focusing on the Passion of Christ and the grief of the Virgin Mary, the saeteros succeed in evoking intense emotions that resonate with both performers and listeners. Furthermore, the inclusion of contemporary themes allows the saeta to remain relevant and adaptable to the changing times.

Year after year, this ancient tradition reaffirms its place as a powerful testament to the enduring faith and devotion of the Spanish people.

This vast cemetery in Madrid is the largest necropolis in Spain and Europe, and one of the largest in the world. Approximately five million people have been laid to rest here – that surpasses the current population of the city.

Our Lady of Almudena Cemetery (Cementerio de Nuestra Señora de La Almudena) is more akin to a town of the dead. Crowds of visitors, especially on All Saints’ Day, on November 1, walk the burial ground along pathways with streets names and varying sections that resemble neighbourhoods with different social standings.

There’s a separate walled “neighbourhood” for the tombs of the rich and famous, miniature palaces, many with ornate doors and windows.

 In another section, the graves of the less fortunate or not so well-to-do aren’t burial plots at all, but rather rows and rows of stacked mini crypts housing the cremated remains within niches several stories high, resembling apartment blocks.

In the centre is the historic heart of the cemetery, with beautiful marble tombstones and statues dating back to the 19th century. The cemetery was built in 1884 and grew rapidly as the cholera epidemic spread.

Although not as grand as the cemeteries in other capitals of Europe, Almudena still has some ornate and interesting gravestones worth visiting. So if you happen to be in the area it is well worth a visit. The Metro Line 2 will get you to the Elipa station, from where you can walk to the entrance, which is about half a kilometre away.

Anyone visiting Barcelona is likely familiar with the unique work of architect Antoni Gaudí. His buildings are a defining aspect of the city. Now, visitors can become even more familiar with the revolutionary architect by stepping inside the first house he ever designed.

Casa Vicens is one of seven properties built by the Catalan modernist architect in the Barcelona region which are recognised as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. UNESCO considers its distinctive style an “outstanding creative contribution to the architectural heritage of modern times.” As they define it.

From the tiles painted with French marigolds on the first two floors to its domed rooftop, which provides a spectacular view of the neighbourhood, Gaudí’s first major architectural project laid the groundwork for his remarkable works of art and paved the way for Catalan Modernism.
Currently, a museum, which opened in 2017, it boasts 15 rooms restored with extensive research and input from descendants of the original tenants. It features a collection of furniture made by Gaudí and 32 paintings by the Spanish painter Francesc Torrescassana i Sallarés.

Stockbroker Manuel Vicens i Montaner commissioned the house, which was constructed between 1883 and 1888 as a summer home and it was later expanded in 1925 by Barcelona architect Joan Baptista Serra de Martínez. The structure contains a myriad of styles which reflect the innovative architect’s inspirations from subjects like nature to oriental and neoclassical architecture. Truly an architectural gem and very much worth a visit if you happen to pass through Barcelona

The Palau de la Música Catalana was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The concert hall is an architectural jewel. Its exterior is as surprising and unique as its interior, with one of the most beautiful auditoriums in the world.

Built between 1905 and 1908 for the Orfeó Català (a Catalan choral society), it is currently one of the most representative Catalan Modernist buildings in Barcelona.  

Its impressive acoustics is the reason for which many famous artists wish to sing in the Palace of Catalan Music and why it is held in such high esteem.

If you happen to be in Barcelona and have enough time, I recommend booking the guided tour. If you don’t have time you must at least walk past the Palau to see this magnificent building.

The building’s guided tour begins with a presentation of its history, its current programme how it plays an essential role in the society of Barcelona.

Once the presentation finishes, visitors are taken to the concert hall. This auditorium is naturally lit during the day with a bright and colourful light thanks to its stained-glass panes and its enormous stained glass skylight. The hall is beautifully decorated to immerse the spectators into a magical world, almost fantasy.

The hall and the stage contain sculptures, busts, reliefs that fill the room with magic and create an ideal atmosphere for the various artists that perform in the Palau.

The tour of the Palace continues in the Lluís Millet hall which is a gathering place for concert-goers a striking Modernist hall with a small terrace with peculiar columns covered in mosaics.

Founded by King Ferdinand IV's royal decree, the Real Jardín Botánico is a two-and-a-half centuries-old wonder, occupying 20-acres of lush terrain in the heart of Spain's capital city.

Housed in its current location since 1781 in a building designed by the same architectural team responsible for the Museo del Prado, the botanical garden was initially populated with over 2,000 specimens retrieved from all over the Iberian peninsula by botanist and surgeon José Quer. After implausibly surviving centuries worth of civil and international wars, the collection has expanded to over 90,000 flowers and plants (not counting its herbarium with a literal million specimens on its own) plus an estimated 1,500 trees.

Originally arranged according to the Linneaus method favored during the period, in which the specimens are categorized in terraces of import, today its expansive grounds have been rearranged in a fashion that makes more sense.

Visitors will find the Real Jardín Botanico has been divided into seven outdoor gardens and five indoor greenhouses. Each of these sections are arranged logically by theme, content, and nature of origin. Highlights include the "Terraza de Cuadros" – featuring a Japanese garden and a series of box-edged plots filled with medicinal, aromatic, and orchard-like plants arranged around a fountain – and a romantic, period-accurate garden arranged to echo an English garden bursting with trees and shrubs. 

Perhaps most fascinatingly of all, one of Real Jardín Botánico's greenhouses has the ability to recreate the desert climate, making it one of the very few places where visitors can experience an accurate desert experience without leaving continental Europe.